Protected by spirits

Norma and her two colleagues sat at my table for a few hours over lunch and they generously recounted one cemetery story after another with little need for encouragement. When I stepped away to prepare tea, I overheard Norma tell the others that she had almost no...

Back to the Atacama

Several years ago, I caught part of a BBC travel documentary about the most extreme locations on the planet – the hottest, the coldest, the highest, etc. My ears perked up when the host said he was going to Coya Sur, Chile. This place is only 78 km from Tocopilla....